You have heard us say “Dinosaur Valley State Park” many times since we started posting and we are sure you have wondered what it is about this place that causes us to think of it as Our “Home” Park. Let us take you there and show you why.
History Runs Through It
Acrocanthosaurus and Pleurocoelus tracks are found in the riverbed of the Paluxy River
The Paluxy River is formed by the meeting of the North Paluxy and the South Paluxy Rivers near Bluff Dale, Texas. It flows twenty-nine miles and empties into the Brazos River just east of Glen Rose, Texas. Most of the time the Paluxy is a quiet little river flowing through many picturesque gorges, but after a heavy rain, it can become immensely powerful and deadly.
In 1908 the resort town of Glen Rose had recently built a bridge over the Paluxy River. Before that, Glen Rose and the surrounding communities had relied on shallow fords to cross the river, and these became impassable during wet weather. On April 17 of that year, the new bridge was washed away in a record-setting flood that destroyed or damaged every bridge in Somervell County.
A few months later in early 1909, a young boy named George Adams was exploring along Wheeler Branch, a creek that empties into the Paluxy, when he found huge birdlike tracks in the limestone bed. He reported this find to his teacher, who brought it to the attention of the scientific community and it was soon confirmed that these were the tracks of a large, bipedal dinosaur, These tracks had likely been uncovered by the flood of the previous year.
Tracks much like the ones George Adams found while exploring the area.
The Paluxy giveth and the Paluxy taketh away. According to Kathy Lenz, former Park Ranger / Park Interpreter for Dinosaur Valley State Park, “The River is always eroding away old tracks and uncovering new ones, so far it has been uncovering new tracks slightly faster than it erodes the old ones.”
The dinosaur footprints were not the first discovered in the United States, but they were, and still are some of the best preserved and easily accessible. The footprints lie in the bed of the river, and can only be accessed when the river is low. Fed by hundreds of local springs, most of the time the river is only a few inches deep, and the water is cool and clean. Even a little rain in the area will cause the Park to close the track sites. The entire area sits on a bed of limestone, and the river can go from calm to flood frighteningly fast.
The various layers of limestone causes a shallow river to have mini waterfalls.
The obvious attraction is, of course, the dinosaur footprints, and they are impressive, but there are many other reasons to visit this amazing park. The Blue Hole, near when the river enters the park, has been a favorite swimming hole since the founding of Glen Rose. It is very popular in the hot Texas summer months.
The Blue Hole quietly waiting for summer guests.
More To See From Above
There are many miles of hiking trails throughout the park, ranging from easy, to moderately difficult. Wildcat Falls is well worth the hike but seeing it can be tricky. It is on the far side of the river, and only flows when it has been raining; however, when it has been raining, you can’t cross the river. There is a back way into the park that few people know about. The Park staff use it to access this area of the park without having to hike in. We never had any difficulty getting permission to use it when we asked at the office. Unfortunately, it seems I never took a good photo of the waterfall.
Ren visiting with friends on the hiking trail
In the spring, this is an excellent place to come see the wildflowers. You will find Indian Paintbrush, Bluebonnets, and Prairie Verbena. There will be fields full of them as you drive to the park’s headquarters. It is almost as good as the Texas Hill Country show of wildflowers.
A beetle enjoys a rest on a Prairie Verbena.
One of the many beautiful birds found at Dinosaur Valley State Park.
Most people avoid the park during the rain. During and after a heavy storm you will find the park nearly empty. This is a shame. You owe it to yourself to see this river in full flood. The power of the river is awesome in the truest sense of the word. It will fill you with awe; the pictures and videos do not do it justice.
The wind whips through the trees as the rain pours down, filling the Paluxy up causing it to rush towards the Brazos River south of Glen Rose. Here you can see the power and strength of water as it pulls trees and dirt from the sides of the gorge. This river is known as the only whitewater rafting spot in North Texas; however, with the huge boulders all throughout the riverbed, it can be extremely dangerous.
The water flows quickly through taking trees and debris with it.
When we lived in Texas, we considered Dinosaur Valley to be our home park. This is the park we would make a mad dash for after getting off of work just to take a short hike or sit and watch the river. It was our park for more than just this, though. The park was founded on October 4, 1972, making its anniversary day the same as our wedding anniversary, so we liked to spend it there among the dinosaurs and camp above the river.
A 50-foot tall Tyrannosaurus rex and 70-foot long Brontosaurus statues entertain guests.
Even though we were living at Eisenhower State Park at the time, we celebrated Ren’s 50th birthday at Dinosaur Valley. She said she always wanted a dinosaur party and this was the place to do it; it was where the dinosaurs lived and it was home. When I started photography, it was the first park I photographed, and the park I photographed the most often. Now that we are in Oklahoma, we have yet to find a park we love as much; we definitely miss this park where the Paluxy runs through.
My last post here was in February when we came back from the Enchanted Rock trip. I was a bit shocked at how long it had been because it has been an extremely busy and fast moving month or so. See, we purchased our RV on February 24, 2017, and did a test run at Eisenhower State Park for Spring Break, but never returned to reality! I know, shocking!
We met with a man in Krum, Texas, who had a 1982 El Dorado Firenza for cheap and the bones were good and so was the engine. It was originally from Alaska and the man he purchased it from had done some basic work to it but eventually decided he just didn’t want to continue the work. We looked at it and thought this might be a great opportunity and bought it.
There were so many things we didn’t like about the RV and they were just cosmetic so we decided to do some major changes on the inside. We took out the bathroom for future plans later, the wall between the kitchen cabinet, the kitchen cabinet, the stove area, and the ugly 80’s couch looking thing. We decided it all had to come out to fit what we needed it to be so we took a sledge hammer and began knocking out walls, counters, stoves, and couches. Like I said, good bones, scary interior.
The floorplan was pretty much for a double bed-marine shower set up and we needed a space for two twin beds, kitchen area, and a sitting area. So we decided to take out everything except the closet area and bed space. This left a very big area to do what we wanted. We were actually able to get the two twin beds in and get it somewhat ready for basic living. This doesn’t mean we were able to get cabinets, counter, bathroom, or pantry in yet, but it is a work in progress. At this point in time, we are paying off some bills and getting money situated so we can take a full two weeks to finish the rig, but that is more towards October at this point. We are just living day to day.
During the demolition, we have found some pretty interesting things about this rig. It was paneled with some 1980’s wood looking paneling, the ceiling was covered with wine-colored velour that was tufted with giant velvet buttons, had a rather odd sepia colored wallpaper and orange-red carpet. It definitely brought back the 80’s and caused me to question my thoughts about taking it back to its original interior. The answer would be “no, not a chance.
Because we were set up to spend a one-week spring break tour with Eisenhower State Park in March, we decided to just take the full week to live as we would full time. This was where the “sudden” happened and we found ourselves in a whirlwind of change. I packed everything we thought we would need from food to clothing, seating to entertainment, and It was one big mess, but we were packed and we headed off on, what I thought would be a two-hour drive.
It took me almost five hours to get to Eisenhower State Park from our apartment in Bedford, Texas because the side mirrors were not working. I would get them into place only to have the wind from driving push them back to where all I could see myself. This was not going work for my safety or anyone else’s. I stopped to have Scott help me get the mirrors right and was off again. The driver side mirror acted correctly from that point, but the passenger mirror would not stay in place. This meant I was either having to stop every time it did this, meaning I was stopping every five to ten minutes. I ended up driving in the right lane at 55 mph extremely stressed because I could not see anything but my own reflection in the right side mirror. I know, stupid decision, but the girls and I made it safely to the parking lot of Eisenhower State Park. I stopped, got out, shut the door when the driver’s side mirror crashed to the ground. I was relieved to be there in one piece.
Once I was signed in at the office, I was given my spot and what a beautiful sight it was. I was given a pull through which meant no backing in with the two useless mirrors.
This was the second weekend in March and spring break was in full gear, come to find out it was the first of three weeks called Spring Break and I was only supposed to do one week. I contacted the Park Host Coordinator, Kate, and she was shocked to find I was scheduled for the full month of March! Wait, we weren’t supposed to be full time Park Hosts until June 1! Something was not right. Scott and I discussed what we were going to do and we decided we would give a 60-day notice to our apartment and move out. Obviously, the park needed us and we thought we were ready for the move.
We took the last week in March and packed up the apartment. Fortunately, I was able to go through all of my personal stuff over the previous six months and was down to what was going into the RV and two totes which sent into storage. Scott had been busy working and was not as fortunate so most of his things went into storage along with the items we both were not ready to let go of. It had been a rough time, but we were done and out of the apartment. We had lived in a 2,000 square foot house, moved to a 547 square foot apartment, then lived in only the 14′ x 12′ bedroom plus the bathroom and kitchen, now we though we were ready to move into a 25 foot RV. Our world was not only going to change, but it was going to change in a way we were not really prepared for. They say March comes in like a lion and exits as a lamb, this would not be so for us and we had no clue what was getting ready to happen.
Scott and I finally made it to our 50th Texas State Park, Pedernales Falls State Park, just outside of Johnson City. We were able to do a little hiking and just enjoy being in the outdoors. While we were there, we took a few minutes and did a quick Outside Our Box so we could celebrate our latest goal achievement.
We had such an amazing time getting lost on the hike and seeing some of the Pedernales River. The camping looked to be clean and comfortable so we will be looking to visit again so we can kayak the river eventually.
Thanks for all the support all of you have shared and all the encouragement.
Friday we went with our friends John and Faye Cobb to Bastrop and Buescher State Parks. John and Faye are part of the Friends of the Lost Pines group and they LOVE these two parks. True Bastrop has been through a lot of major changes over the past five years between a huge forest fire in 2011 and the loss of their CCC built dam in 2015, but it is a very, very nice park with so much history. While we drove the along State Park Road 1A, B, and C, they told us stories about the building of the parks, visiting of the populous, and the violence of Mother Nature.
When we drove through the CCC built entry way, I could see why John and Faye loved this park; it was beautiful. The drive towards the headquarters building meandered lazily past loblolly pines and a mix of late summer wildflowers. Before you arrive at the office, there is a large spring fed pond. This pond is where many El Camino Real Travelers had stopped along their travels to San Antonio; portions of the historic road run through the park. Bastrop State Park is part of the El Camino Real de los Tejas National Historic Trail.
We stopped in to the park to get paid up and introduce me as a representative of Texans for State Parks and Stitchntravel.com. It is always nice to go inside to check-in instead of just stopping at the gate. Scott and I have found we love meeting the park staff and volunteers. I honestly can’t say we have ever met anyone working for/volunteering for the parks that we don’t enjoy meeting. When you visit one of the Texas State Parks, stop in to the office and visit with them. You will also find, at many of the parks, a Park Store where you can pick up patches, t-shirts, and other souvenirs. Most of the time these stores are run by the park’s Friends group.
Once checked-in and all the “technical” stuff was finished, we hopped back in the truck and headed further into Bastrop. John drove us to the rectory which is a CCC built building. This building is definitely a work of art and craftsmanship. Arthur Fehr was the architect for this part and he wanted to make sure that it did not distract from the rolling hills and pine forests that surrounded this building. He required the use of native materials in the construction of the rectory, cabins, bridges, and dam.
Because of the history of this park and the importance the CCC, there was a huge fear during the 2011 fire that these would be destroyed. Looking to the north of this building you can see just how close the fire came. Fortunately, the buildings escaped the danger, and it is here for future generations to cherish and enjoy.
We continued to drive through the park and see the destructions of the 2011 fire. I was just stunned at how much of a loss this park had and how so many of their beloved pines had been affected. How often do we hear about forest fires but yet never truly think of the damaged landscape? Scott and I were faced with this damaged sight and were completely speechless.
Fortunately, Scott and I try very hard to find the beauty in all places, including places that have been ravaged by disaster. Because Faye and John were giving us a tour, we learned about all the things the park, conservationists, and friends group were doing to help the park heal. All throughout the park you could see signs of life and the land working at healing. I will save the details for a future post, but know that the success of this park is due to the volunteers and staff working hard to care for this land by planting trees and disaster clean up. Their efforts are definitely noticeable.
We really loved the camp sites at this park. Those sites that were were for RV use were nicely situated and had some amazing views.
Since we are tent campers still, we seem to really take notice of the areas were tents can be placed so they are flat and in a good position. Not only this but, since each site can have up to four tents, is there room for more than one and no crowding. This camping area was very well set up for just this type of situation.
And then of course the bathhouse is near and an area to camp under a sheltered area with plenty of space. I do love the CCC era construction very pretty to look at.
One thing Bastrop State Park is known for is her cabins. These were all made by the CCC and are all unique from each other. Each cabin has a sitting area and fire pit as well as bathroom and kitchen. I so want to stay in one of them eventually.
As we continued, John took us to the failed dam. The water that rushed from the downed dam was said to be 40-feet in height and tore down trees and destroyed camping areas. You can see here the damage from that failure. Keep in mind this dam was built in the 1930’s and the area was receiving more rain than they had. It didn’t fail because of the construction, it was just overwhelmed from the amount of rain over the past year.
John wanted us to enjoy one of the best views of the park so he took us up to one of the overlooks that survived the fire. This is another CCC built building and it has so much character. The cement used to make the foundation was made with the local pebbles, the stones to build the structure are from the area, and the wood used to create the interesting interior of the space was from the area as well.
We neared the 1A road loop, we noticed we were heading out of Bastrop State Park. The road we were on would connect us to the back of Buescher State Park.
The road we would take to Buescher State Park was Park Road 1C. It was an eleven mile drive and it would take us up hills, down into valleys, and through the original loblolly pine forest. It was beautiful. The road was only wide enough for two vehicles and was very twisty, turny. With every turn we took, Scott wanted to stop and take photos while all I could say was, “Oh, wow…”
We finally arrived through the back “door” of Buescher and were greeted by a small sign telling us we were entering the park. There was a definite difference between these two parks. While Bastrop was a park in the middle of a loblolly pine forest, Buescher had no loblolly pines that I could see. Here the majority of trees I saw was Post Oaks with other varieties mixed about.
Because we arrived through the back entry, our first encounter was the CCC built group pavilion. There is an outdoor fireplace and plenty of picnic tables inside. Across the way you will find the bathrooms and plenty of locations to enjoy a day outside.
This park had another one of those twisty, turny roads that traveled through a canopy of moss covered trees and past a small waterfall of water coming off Buescher “lake”.
As we turned one of the turns, we were completely surrounded by the trees on either side of the road. It was literally a tunnel and I felt as if I were in a dream or story book. I have always loved these types of drives, surrounded by trees and mysterious turns. Because of the efforts of those who fought for the park system we are able to have a small glimpse into the world our ancestors traveled through.
If you find yourself in the Austin, Texas, area, you really should go about 30 miles east to the city of Bastrop and visit these two state parks. You will not regret your time there and you will view a world where nature has taken the destruction of a forest fire and use it to make something of even more beauty.
Often when Scott and I travel, we do not make solid plans. This, I know now, is not normal for most people; however, I do not believe we are your normal travelers. Most of the time we find a spot on the map and plan to be in that area for a specific amount of time and THAT is as close to planning as we get to normal. With this thought in mind, it will help you understand what happened on our Labor Day Weekend trip to the Bastrop area.
When Scott made it home on Thursday, because everything was packed, we headed out by 3:30pm. The puppies were kissed and loved on, the puppy sitter and good friend Peter would be in and out throughout the time to give walks, lovin’s, food, and many, many bacon treats. We stopped long enough to get drinks and travel treats for ourselves and we headed out to enjoy a work-cation with our friends John and Faye, leaders of the Friends of the Lost Pines State Parks. We were looking at a three and a half-hour trip so we were looking forward to a delicious John stew and Faye’s corn cakes.
When we were about thirty minutes from the town of West, Texas, you could see a huge, dark storm to the south with plenty of dramatic lightning and what looked to be sheets of heavy rain. I looked up the weather radar for the area and there was a huge line of storms for miles along highway 35. There was a rather large RED circle in the middle of this storm and we were headed right for it. Scott, being the calm person he normally is, was soon to discover himself driving extremely slow through torrential rain where you could barely see the cars five feet in front of you. The traffic had, unsurprisingly, slowed to a crawl and there were yellow hazard lights blinks for as far as we could see; this was not more than five feet ahead of us, as I said before. To be honest, I would not have been shocked to find the road ahead of us flooded and us sitting at a solid stop for hours and hours while the water rose and engulfed our little truck. Luckily, we did not meet any flood waters and were soon south of the storm continuing on our way towards Waco.
If you have been following us long, you will know that we tend to take roads we normally haven’t been on and don’t always have a sense of time when we do take new roads. Highway 77 was not any different. One of our goals was to pick up two counties on the way down to Bastrop that evening; this was not a difficult thing, it was just driving along the road to get where we planned to end up eventually.
Since we were past the rain, the drive seemed to be going nicely and we were making great time until we came across the city of Camron in Milam County, Texas. This was one of the counties we needed to cross off our list and we recently decided to get as many photos of the county courthouses as we could. Because of this I convinced Scott to drive a couple of blocks from highway 77 so we could get the photo of the Milam County Courthouse; we did not regret it at all.
One of the things about the county courthouses in Texas is that there is usually a county jail near by if not directly next to it. However, this jail building was across the street and it looked like a castle; it was built in 1895 by the Pauly Jail Building and Manufacturing Company of St. Louis. There is just something about the design and workmanship of this generation.
I know you really can’t tell how dark it had gotten when we were taking photos here, but it was near 8pm and we still had an fourty-five minutes to an hour to go. You can see many more photos of this county courthouse and jail buildings on your Flickr page HERE. On this trip we were able to cross off ten counties and we were able to get photos of nine of the courthouses. We are still processing the photos so those should be on Flickr soon.
We finally made it to our destination and John’s stew was fantastic and Faye’s corn cakes were amazing! Such a very long trip, but it was nice to come in to a nice hot meal. We were also greeted by their three wonderful furbabies and a really nice comfy bed. We had a big day coming up and we were exhausted so it was time eat and rest.